Dec 19, 2017 - My research in the Rogers 60s catalogs has shown that the drums. 5x14 Power Tone snare Cleveland OH tag sn: 3727. Great folks at the Vintage Drum Forum, the serial numbers indicate a late 1963 to early 1964 build. Vintage Snare Drums online is the place to ask your vintage drum question. Ask the Vintage Drum Experts your drumming questions. The largest online vintage drum museum on the planet.
Enjoy the Music! HOOKED ON VINTAGE ROGERS 12 tom times 3 13 tom times 3 16 floor tom 3 22 BD times 2 24 BD 1 Dyna-sonic snare 1976 Dyna-sonic snare 1969 Powertone snare 1969 24 x 12 Djembe 21' K Hybrid custom ride 21' Avedis ride 20' Zildjian 1970 ride 18' A Custom Zildjian fast crash 17' A Custom Zildjian med crash 15' A Custom Zildjian Reso hats 10' A Custom fast splash 18' A Custom China LP Cowbell baby.always more cowbell Member of 'PHROGGES AQUARIAN ARMY' The Zildjian League Drum Chat's Record for Most Users Online BE COUNTED!
Those yammy drums sorta suck, a lot. Really totally.
Dynasonic Tuning Instructions. Lets get the stuff loose. I dont know where you tension your heads. Here is the Rogers recommended spec. The Dynasonic was designed as a high tensioned snare. Original heads were a Coated Diplomat Top, with Ambassador Snare Side. A coated ambassador, genera 1, Evans J1 etched, Aquarian texture coated.
Are all equiv. Heads, in the real world today.
Others would work as well, but the drum will perform better with a single ply coated head type than anything else. Loosen the tension on the top head. Bring it to finger tight with uniform action on your part around the drum. Tension that head on a ten lug pattern using 1/2 turns until you get to 2 full turns of tension. Loosen the tension of the head, then bring all the lugs up to finger tight using a uniform pattern around the drum so that the head sits evenly on the shell. Tension that head on a ten lug pattern using 1/2 turns until you get to 2 1/2 turns above the finger tight starting point.
The drum should sound good right here. Check your tension at each lug and adjust to bring tone equivalance around the drum.
Little should be necessary. These drums are amazingly accurate for tone at the prescribed tension.
Take it off the drum. Check to make sure your snares are in good condition, the epoxy is tight, and the mounting screws are properly tight. Loosen the Snare Frame Tension screw. And bring it back up the finger tight, do not force it. The snares should sing on the frame. Do not use a screwdriver on the Snare Tension Frame Screw. Engage the throwoff.
Set the NO TENSION state of the throwoff to about the mid point of the Throw Off Adjustment knob. Now flip the drum over on its batter side, and CENTER the frame on the head. Tension the strings into the butt first. Then Tension the strings on the retaining screws on the Throwoff side. Engage the Throw off and using the Adjustment Knob on the Throw Off, bring it up to the Snare Side head until the snares kiss the head. Tap the drum, when you begin to hear snare sound, adjust just slightly more to completely engage the snares to the bottom head. Try the drum.
You should have great response from edge to center. At any volume level. Over adjusting the Throwoff knob does not give you more snare sound, does not tighten the snares.it will only choke the drum, and over time, will result in a dent in the shell at the throw off.
Very little effort should be required to bring the throw off from the disengaged position to fully engaged. The frame will not be tight against the bottom head and you will be able to move it with your finger. I think it will surprise you.
BEFORE you buy new heads. I have a few Dynasonics and Supertens that still have original bottom heads and most have original wires. Some of those are over 40 years old. Enjoy the Music! HOOKED ON VINTAGE ROGERS 12 tom times 3 13 tom times 3 16 floor tom 3 22 BD times 2 24 BD 1 Dyna-sonic snare 1976 Dyna-sonic snare 1969 Powertone snare 1969 24 x 12 Djembe 21' K Hybrid custom ride 21' Avedis ride 20' Zildjian 1970 ride 18' A Custom Zildjian fast crash 17' A Custom Zildjian med crash 15' A Custom Zildjian Reso hats 10' A Custom fast splash 18' A Custom China LP Cowbell baby.always more cowbell Member of 'PHROGGES AQUARIAN ARMY' The Zildjian League Drum Chat's Record for Most Users Online BE COUNTED! And Ploughman, I have my Dyna set up as you explained with a little extra tension on the snare side.
I had to modify PureSounds to have a hole in the middle, haha. You know how they sound.
If you could. Please post a pic of your puresound wires off the drum, by themselves. Because if you had to modify the wires for the Dynasonic frame. IE, there was no mounting holes in the wire end plates, those wiresare not correct for a Dynasonic. Dynasonic end plates are a reverse from standard. This is because of how the Dynasonic wires mount to the frame.
Standard wires mounted on a dynasonic frame have an over pronounced bow upwards towards the reso head when the frame is mounted on the drum. In order to correct this the snares must be tensioned rather tightly to reduce the bowing effect. If you could. Please post a pic of your puresound wires off the drum, by themselves.
Because if you had to modify the wires for the Dynasonic frame. IE, there was no mounting holes in the wire end plates, those wiresare not correct for a Dynasonic. Dynasonic end plates are a reverse from standard. This is because of how the Dynasonic wires mount to the frame. Standard wires mounted on a dynasonic frame have an over pronounced bow upwards towards the reso head when the frame is mounted on the drum.
In order to correct this the snares must be tensioned rather tightly to reduce the bowing effect.I'll post you some pictures tomorrow. I totally forgot. Sorry about that! I got another question for the Rogers master. If I have the toms mounted further back on the swivlematic's l-rods, it seems to deaden the sound of the toms. Further down the rods, it resonates beautifully.
A much more appealing sound. Problem is, when they're that far down on the l-rods, it makes the toms closer to me. AND it looks kinda funny. Not one to complain about aesthetics, especially on a kit like THIS, but it also messes with playability. Especially with both the rack toms up, like they are now. Is this normal? What should I do?
If I switch back to one tom, it's not a big deal, but when I have two up. It's a slight problem. Not sure if you get what I mean. I'll post pictures tomorrow (I promise) when I wake up. Looking at the time now, that could be around noon.
And I'll post the Dynasaur pictures too. ) Thanks, expert genius king-of-Rogers! Questions are often asked about where and how serial number sequences align with Rogers Big R drums produced from 1975-84. There was a long standing myth that badge numbers repeated.
This is not true. After careful observance of hundreds of drum badges with numbers, and carefully comparing construction of the drums across serial ranges over the past several years, it has been possible to forensically sort out how some of this worked. A careful comparison of drum construction in both toms and snare drums has made this possible. Comparing data from original owners in regards to their numbers, types of drum construction, and purchase dates, allows a more accurate dating of serial number ranges.
'The more drums that are observed, the more accurate is the analysis of how they fit. Here are a few interesting facts. After a brief transition period coinciding with the introduction of the Big R foil badge in 1976, badge locations on snare drums moved from the Oval Badge location first panel to the right of the throw off, around the drum to the second panel to the left of the throw off, and the script logo is no longer present on the drum. This is the location in which you see the majority of Big R badges located on Dynasonic COB drums, 2nd panel to the left of the throw off. ALL XP10 ten ply maple drums produced from 1981-84, have the badge located 2nd panel to the left. Dampener is always located in the first panel to the left of the throw off. This was pretty much common knowledge among Rogers collectors.
First generation transition Big R drums all bear 4 to 5 digit foil badges up to about the 15,xxx range. All of these drums have the Big R in the 1st panel to the left, script logo is 2nd panel to the right. Dampeners are always present and are in the first panel to the left of the throw off. There are no drums with six digit numbers that have these characteristics.
Recent observations, and coincidentally quite a few drums have come up for auction within a short time bearing certain characteristic which have been seen before, but no one really made the association these characteristics indicated more than a custom order or a factory accident. Dampener holes, throw off mounting holes, and lug mounting holes, all appear to be prepunched in the brass shell prior to plating. Five Digit numbered badges in a range that starts aprox. In the 17,xxx range, and continues into the 41xxx range, have the Rogers Big R badge and grommet located 2nd panel to the right of the throw off, no script logo, and NO Dampener. I have carefully examined pictures of more than twenty drums, all of which fall into this serial range sequence, and ALL bearing the exact same characteristic. This indicates a second gen transition period for the Big R badged Dynasonic snare drums. I am continuing to watch for five digit Big R badges on five ply drums to further determine this variation exists only on Dynasonics produced in the early Big R period.
Some collectors believe these are late produced shells with a serial number range that is way out of sequence, due to cost cutting, lower production numbers, and generally, just using whatever parts were at hand. I do not believe that to be the case. It has been long stated you could not use the Big R serial numbers to date production of drums, but my observations do not agree with this. Rogers Superten snare drums. First produced in 1972, first appearing in the 1973 catalogue, the Superten was presented as a Chrome over Steel shell, sporting ten Beavertail double ended lugs, standard Rogers ten lug hoops, Rogers Swivomatic Throw off and Butt, a coated Ambassador top with an Ambassador Snare side, available in 5x14 and 6.5x14 sizes. These drums were produced until the close of production in 1984. 1972-75, drums bear the Rogers Superten serial numbered Oval Badge with vent grommet in the first panel to the right of the Throw off, they also have the Rogers script logo located in the second panel to the right of the throw off.
With the introduction of the Rogers Big R foil badge in 1975, this did not change. The Big R badge stays in the old location on all 5x14 COS Superten snare drums, regardless of what number is on the Big R badge.
I have observed five digit drums, and own two, that have early transition characteristics from 75/76. I have no serial badge drums from 1980-81, which can be solidly dated to those years. 1975 Superten five digit I have observed six digit drums from 82-84, which have hardware variations that solidly confirm the dating of the drums, and ALL of these drums have one unique characteristic. The Bid R badge is still in the old oval badge location and ALL of these drums still have the two mounting screw holes for the oval badge. This suggests that Rogers 5x14 Superten COS drums produced during the Big R period are built on shells ordered druing the late Fullerton oval badge period. This was previously unknown, and was discovered by observing manufacturing variations on drums and comparing numbers. It is confirmed by pictures of Superten snare drums in Rogers catalogues produced from 1975-84 in the USA and Japan.
73, 75, 75, 80 COS 5x14 Superten Snare Drums Now, the 6.5x14 Superten COS snare drum, is a different story. By1979-80, we do see the Big R badge move to the new location on this drum. Catalogue pics, and drums that have come up for auction reveal this. The size is so rare, I cannot as yet ascertain, and at this point have no real idea.
Where this transition falls in regards to serial range. Last edited by ThePloughman; at 07:29 PM.
Page: 1 Global user Registered: 09-2007 Posts: 87 Early Cleveland Powertone - COS shell vs COB? I came across a Powertone snare that, through, questioning the owner agreed was COS. I was not aware there was a chrome over steel shell in Powertone snares.
Of course, I am relatively new to Rogers, so who knew?? Since Cleveland snares seem to have the greatest value, is there any truth to the COS shell and, if so, if there greater value in that snare versus the later COB? Thanks very much, as always, for your insights. Peter Last edited by Poorsh30, 7:58 am, 6:42 am Global user Registered: 09-2007 Posts: 87 Re: Early Cleveland Powertone - COS shell vs COB?
Okay, so I may be a bit lame this morning, as I looked up Powertones in the Rob Cook Rogers book and he mentioned that the early Powertones were COS. That said, he doesn't talk about them at all (that I could find), so I'm still without any information. I'm not sure about serial numbers and years those were produced, except I know that Rob Cook said COB started in 1967. Those are statistics, but does COS being only made for a couple of years make it a more rare, possibly more desireably Powertone.
![Rogers Powertone Snare Drum Serial Numbers Rogers Powertone Snare Drum Serial Numbers](/uploads/1/2/5/4/125420606/831106390.jpg)
Also, is there a real differnce in sound and is it worse, causing Rogers to switch? Sorry for all the sign in to see URL, if you have anything else to add that I didn't think of, it would be appreciated. Peter Last edited by Poorsh30, 7:58 am, 7:58 am Guru Emeritus Global user Registered: 04-2007 Posts: 662 Re: Early Cleveland Powertone - COS shell vs COB? Quote: Poorsh30 wrote: Okay, so I may be a bit lame this morning, as I looked up Powertones in the Rob Cook Rogers book and he mentioned that the early Powertones were COS.
That said, he doesn't talk about them at all (that I could find), so I'm still without any information. I'm not sure about serial numbers and years those were produced, except I know that Rob Cook said COB started in 1967. Those are statistics, but does COS being only made for a couple of years make it a more rare, possibly more desireably Powertone. Also, is there a real differnce in sound and is it worse, causing Rogers to switch?
Sorry for all the sign in to see URL, if you have anything else to add that I didn't think of, it would be appreciated. Peter Hi Peter, THE ROB COOK ROGERS BOOK IS WRONG, THERE WERE NO COS (CHROME OVER STEEL) POWERTONE SNARE DRUMS MADE. All the metal drums Rogers made at that time were COB (Chrome Over Brass). Holiday, Dynasonic, and Powertone were all made out of brass.
They didn't think of using steel then, it was a non musical material. Drums were made out of wood or brass.
The first Rogers steel shell drum was the Super Ten in 1973. I would like to see detailed pictures of the drum you think is a COS Powertone and I'd like to see a magnet hanging off of the shell. Bruce, 12:38 pm Global user Registered: 09-2007 Posts: 87 Re: Early Cleveland Powertone - COS shell vs COB? Hi Bruce: Clearly you are (one of) the resident expert and I certainly could not doubt you.
I did like the fact that it was an early Cleveland Powertone, something in the low 5k, with a clockface (chrome) strainer. I will certainly try the magnet thing, but I'm sure it is COB.
A real shame that Rob Cook's book is incorrect and I'm sure its not the only place. By the way, they did a pretty poor job of editing changes from first to second edition. Anyway, will send pics when I receive it. Peter, 7:06 pm ROF Resident Guru Global user Registered: 04-2007 Posts: 1072 Re: Early Cleveland Powertone - COS shell vs COB? I have a 3600 range 63 COB powertone, 5x14. Its seriously Brass.
Beavertails, Clockface, original as far as i know., 7:45 pm Global user Registered: 09-2007 Posts: 87 Re: Early Cleveland Powertone - COS shell vs COB? Thanks Guys: I have to sign in to see URL sooner did I read the note from Bruce, I happened to check out Ebay and there was another ad for a earlier Powertone that was stated as been COS. Checked this morning and it 'mysteriously' now reads as 'chrome over brass!' Anyway, any ideas on how early #5997 would be?
Has chrome clockface. And, while I'm on the subject, anyone have the small chrome piece that holds the snare chord? As always, thanks for your insights! Peter, 7:09 am Guru Emeritus Global user Registered: 04-2007 Posts: 662 Re: Early Cleveland Powertone - COS shell vs COB? It's a Clockface Throw and not the Straight Side/Elongated Throw?
It also has standard hoops and Beavertail lugs? I'd say it's a late 1964. Bruce Last edited by LongRoll, 1:02 pm, 12:44 pm Global user Registered: 09-2007 Posts: 87 Re: Early Cleveland Powertone - COS shell vs COB?
Hi Bruce and thanks for the reply. Yes to the first, clockface, not elongated throw Standard not tall hoops later beavertail not B&B lugs Any distingushing features to this snare versus later, or are they basically the same up through the end of the Cleveland era and maybe beyond.
Understanding that maybe the very early, low number, snares might have been different. Thanks very much. Peter, 11:04 am Guru Emeritus Global user Registered: 04-2007 Posts: 662 Re: Early Cleveland Powertone - COS shell vs COB? Powertone was the name given to the changes made to a 'Holiday' shell. The very first advertising and usage for the name 'Powertone' was a flyer that came out late 1962 after the 62R Catalog that showed the New Holiday with Powertone: Powertone in the begining was a new design on their holiday shell. It was the new bearing edge, but most importantly was the new wide and gradual snare beds, that gave the drum better snare response all over the head and a larger tuning range.
The first Powertone had Tall Hoops, and B&B Lugs. The B&B lugs and tall hoops disapeared at about serial number 23xx and were replaced by Beavertail lugs and standard hoops. The Clockface Throws hung on a little longer and were gone around 6xxx. Bruce, 1:14 pm Classmate Member Global user Registered: 06-2007 Posts: 229 Re: Early Cleveland Powertone - COS shell vs COB?
Yes, Rob Cooks Rogers book has some things wrong with it. It has confused many people with inconsistencies. BUT let us not forget that it is the only full size book out there about Rogers drums and that there are many truths and consistencies. I find myself complaining about it and then I have to stop and thank the man for putting it together.
Any Powertone is killer! Bruce, are you telling me that there are PowerTones with later bearing edges AND tall hoops/B&B lugs??? That would be something great to hear!!! 5. serial number is a great snare to have. Isaac 11/1/2007, 12:25 pm Page: 1.